Olivier Rousteing, creative director for Balmain, and the one and only, triple-threat icon and mother to us all, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, changed the way we see music and hear fashion by creating the first of its kind—a wearable album. Balmain’s Renaissance Couture consists of 16 looks, one for every track off Beyoncé’s July 2022 album release, RENAISSANCE—a joyous and liberating album that celebrates life and love, daring us all to embrace the things that make us unique!
Not only is this collection’s concept a first of its kind, but it is also the first time a black woman has co-designed a couture collection created by an established Parisian house. Olivier Rousteing also made history as the first black man to become the head of a Parisian couture house when taking his position as creative director for Balmain in 2011. Both RENAISSANCE the album and the Renaissance Couture collection are special for being artistic symbols of freedom and courage to anyone who has ever felt unseen. Through classically reimagined garments and never before seen silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing and Beyoncé make bold statements and no apologies for the “masterpiece, genius,” that is the Renaissance Couture collection.
Personal Synopsis of Renaissance Couture by Beyoncé X Balmain
I’M THAT GIRL
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Bustier in hammered metal by the sculptor Elie Hirsch. Matching spiked bracelets. Pareo skirt and gloves in black nappa lamb leather.
Starting the collection off strong with one of my favorite looks. When I first saw this look it made me very emotional because of how loudly it speaks to the message of the song “IM THAT GIRL”. This song is about realizing that there is a light inside each one of us that is waiting to shine. This light can be dangerous to others, symbolized through the sharp, pointed crown of the sun; even to yourself if you aren’t careful. The garment tells you to let your inner light act as your armor, protecting you from anyone who tries to steal it away.
“It’s not the diamonds, it’s not the pearls. I’m that girl”
COZY
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Feu d’artifice (fireworks) dress, in black velvet embroidered with pink feathers. Black velvet turban and boots.”
Imagine wearing this around the city, brushing up against everyone and everything, painting the world around you pussy pink. Balmain describes this garment as the Feu d’artifice — or Fireworks — dress, and it’s obvious to why. It looks as if there are a hundred soft, pink fireworks bursting around the model, almost snuggling their body in the coziest of ways. These tiny pink fireworks give off the illusion of a radiating pink aura, often associated with love and the heart chakra. The message the song “COZY” brings of loving yourself and feeling comfortable in your own skin is certainly not lost in translation when considering its stunning couture form.
ALIEN SUPERSTAR
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: “3D structured gown embroidered with crystals”
Another one of my favorite looks from the collection, ALIEN SUPERSTAR is nothing short of breathtaking. I love the shape of this look and how it plays with both masculine and feminine forms by broadening the shoulders and widening the hips. The garment’s clean and futuristic design with symmetrical lines that seem to be embellished with one star from every galaxy showcases otherworldly glamor to the highest degree. This outfit screams alien superstar, making anyone in it, “too classy for this world.”
ENERGY (02)
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Embroidered gown with pattern inspired by traditional African hair-braiding, created with yarn braiding techniques
As a woman who takes great pride in and puts a lot of care into her hair, this African hair-braiding inspired garment spoke to me. From crown to gown, this outfit looks as if the model’s hair weaved itself into beautiful couture, wrapping around the entire body before lively swinging to the ground. This is the perfect look to embody ENERGY because it plays into the common belief in African culture that the natural coils of African textured hair act as an antenna to channel and store spiritual energy.
BREAK MY SOUL
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Hooded dress, draped relying on shiny black velvet and paired with a 3D-printed bustier that gives the illusion of a naked torso, electroplated in black chrome.
“BREAK MY SOUL” was the single that kicked off Beyoncé’s iconic album of 2022, so there is no question that its designated couture look had to be just as impactful. When describing this look, Olivier Rousteing said their goal was to, “build confidence and power into the design—so, we went all out for drama.” This look exudes confidence and strength, demanding attention and respect from everyone in the room.
CHURCH GIRL
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Black-and-red velvet cape coat; metallic belt. 3D-printed electroplated chest bustier in silver chrome. Record-inspired, two-tone, flat, circular hat.
“CHURCH GIRL’ was by far the most controversial song on the album because of its sexually explicit lyrics—being condemned by many pastors or other spiritual leaders around the globe as disrespectful and ignorant. The look itself presents as a high fashion, couture witch; symbolic of the women in the 17th century that were accused of being witches for embracing their sexuality. Collin Bayne writes, “Witches were uniquely poised to help women with issues we would consider feminist today.” Both “CHURCH GIRL” the song and CHURCH GIRL the couture look serve as artistic representations of the role religion plays in both past and present-day feminism.
“Nobody can judge me but me, I was born free”
PLASTIC OFF THE SOFA
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Bustier dress built around a pink chrome inverted bow
This incredibly sexy and sheek evening gown combines two iconic Parisian couture signatures: the bow and le smoking. The tales of the inverted bow take on the most minimalistic form of lapels, leaving us with a fresh and unique twist on the classic Le Smoking suit and Parisian couture bow. “PLASTIC OFF THE SOFA” is undeniably disco and this outfit allows you to wear disco while simultaneously paying homage to the fashion of the disco era.
VIRGO’S GROOVE
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Corolla gown and second skin in dusty pink velvet. Metallic décolleté by Elie Hirsch. Vintage Balmain hat, reinterpreted in hammered metal.
This look is the first of the collection to showcase thee iconic Balmain hat design in an expensive regal gold. The use of metallics can be seen throughout the collection which, to me, is symbolic of strength and protection. Just as armor is to dauntless gladiators or soldiers, Renaissance couture makes the wearer feel fearless and invincible. The bold metallics of the hat and breastplate are beautifully contrasted by a soft pink velvet body suit, fitted from fingertip to toe, making the body seem oh soo irresistible.
“You don’t need an excuse.. to touch somebody. To love somebody. To trust somebody. Now go ahead and hug somebody ’cause I can see the light in you.”
MOVE
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Draped dress in thermo-strass bleu-gitane jersey. Matching thermo-strass hat, corne headdress
“MOVE OUT THE WAY! I’m with my girls and we all need space!” Whoever is wearing this outfit demands 50 feet at all times making it the perfect outfit to match the commanding energy of “MOVE”, the tenth track on Beyoncé’s album RENAISSANCE. At first glance, this outfit comes across as an avant-garde bull of some sort, with long horns extending past hip and shoulder width in a beautiful bleu-gitane, one of Beyoncé’s favorite colors (we all know Beyoncé loves Blue). With closer analysis, we notice the masterfully executed draping of the garment and powerfully sleek shoulders; a style reminiscent of Grace Jones and her iconic looks from the 80s, to who Beyoncé also pays homage in this song.
HEATED
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Gown and Balmain vintage hat ensemble set in thermoformed black velvet, set with crystals.
Beyoncé co-designing this project with Olivier Rousteing is special in many ways but is especially touching because she is following in the footsteps of her late Uncle Johnny. Uncle Johnny was actually Tina Knowles’s nephew, however, they were both very close and had more of a brother-sister bond. He was also a part of the LGBTQIA+ community and was the first to introduce Beyoncé to house music. Uncle Johnny was a creative—designing many of Beyoncé’s costumes early on in her career and even making her prom dress. After having complications with HIV, Uncle Johnny, unfortunately, passed away, however, his influence and legacy lives on through his family. This album represents Beyoncé’s love letter to her Uncle Johnny and to the queer community as a whole.
THIQUE
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Tassel chandelier earrings. Hammered brass and crystal pendants illusion bustier. Black-velvet bodysuit; black-velvet turban. Tassel chandelier earrings (left). Metal and crystal reversed-chandelier illusion skirt. Black-velvet bodysuit; black-velvet turban (right).
I know I’m speaking for all the curvy girlies when I say we felt seen and celebrated when listening to “THIQUE”. In these two matching couture looks, the sensual bust and voluptuous hips are decorated with elegant crystal chandeliers, perfectly translating those same feelings from the song to the garments. Heavy crystals. Heavy brass metal. Heavy bass in the song. Heavy ass behind a thick-legged woman. Heavy, heavy, heavy. Both the song and garment commemorate thick women and relinquish outdated societal standards that were created to make women feel small.
ALL UP IN YOUR MIND
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Feather-embroidered fan paired with black velvet and satin jumpsuit and gloves.
This collection has an abundance of original silhouettes, however, ALL UP IN YOUR MIND takes the cake for my personal favorite of them all. This unique design allows for a gravity-defying silhouette that appears as if someone captured a freeze frame of the dress being blown in the wind as it was flying all up in our minds. The silhouette of the dress is also reminiscent of a fan shape, commemorating the ballroom scene and its long and beautiful history with fashion.
AMERICA HAS A PROBLEM
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Crimson velvet draped jumpsuit 3D-printed bustier electroplated in gold chrome
Imagine pulling up to the red carpet as the red carpet. Iconic. This look is constructed of beautifully draped crimson-red fabric, a color that exudes confidence and demands the room—fitting for Queen Bey’s conviction in “AMERICA HAS A PROBLEM” for her being one of America’s biggest addictions. In this look, again, we can see the use of draping and metallics, both popular themes held throughout the collection.
“I see you watching (fiending), I know you want it (scheming).”
PURE/HONEY
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Graphic ensemble embroidered with sequins and feathers, draped earrings in metallic mesh and black jersey turban
“PURE/HONEY” pays tribute to the ballroom community and celebrates the bold and exuberant club kid. The mixture of patterns, textures, and shapes in this one look symbolizes the diversity and unity within ballroom culture and how people from all different walks of life—who were often characterized as misfits and outcasted by society for their sexuality—would come together to form a community that loved and embraced one another for who they were.
SUMMER RENAISSANCE
Photo and description courtesy of Balmain: Wig, cape and short strapless dress—all embroidered with lurex fringes, crystals and rhinestones
If disco was a person, they would be wearing this final look. “SUMMER RENAISSANCE” is the last song on the album so it’s no wonder its coupled couture look is reminiscent of a grand finale, exploding with confetti in celebration of a revolutionary album and fashion collection. Just like this final look, RENAISSANCE the album shined from top to bottom and encapsulated the magic of house and disco music.
Amazing write up, so much detail behind each outfit. I’m That Girl and Break My Soul are my favorite looks!